In short: A paludarium combines a real water section with a planted land section in one tank. This paludarium setup guide walks you through the whole build in the order it actually happens: choosing the tank, deciding the water-to-land ratio, building the dividing wall and drainage, installing filter, heating and light, fitting the background, and only then planting and stocking. Plan the hidden technology before the first drop of silicone, and the finished paludarium will look like a riverbank instead of a fish tank with a pile of soil in the corner.

What makes a paludarium different from a normal terrarium?
The word comes from the Latin palus, swamp. A paludarium is a habitat in which open water and dry ground are both essential parts of the design, usually with a shoreline between them. A terrarium with a water bowl is not a paludarium, and an aquarium with a floating plant is not one either. The test is simple: if you removed the water section or the land section, would the animals lose something they need? If yes, you are building a paludarium. Still unsure which enclosure type you need? Our comparison of vivarium vs terrarium vs paludarium explains the differences.
That double function changes everything about the build. Water must be filtered like in an aquarium, while the land section must drain, breathe and stay planted like in a rainforest terrarium. The air above both is warm and humid almost all of the time. Every material in the tank, from the substrate to the background, must cope with permanent moisture and splashes.
Which tank should you use for a paludarium?
Whether you buy a ready-made unit or have a tank built, the requirements are the same. Many people search for a "paludarium kit" or a "paludarium for sale" and then discover that many kits are simply aquariums with a lid. Check these points before you buy:
- Watertight to the height of your water line. Front-opening reptile terrariums often have a low glass strip or ventilation slot at the front. If your water line is higher than that strip, the tank is not suitable as a paludarium.
- Front access. Sliding or hinged front doors above the water line make planting, feeding and maintenance far easier than reaching down from the top.
- Ventilation at the top and at the front. Warm, damp air must be able to move, otherwise the front glass fogs up and mould spreads on the land section.
- Height. A paludarium is rarely shallower than 45 cm, because water depth, land section and climbing space all compete for the same vertical room. 50–60 cm of height is a comfortable start.
- Weight and base. Water weighs one kilogram per litre. A 100 × 50 × 50 cm tank filled one third with water holds more than 80 kg of water alone. Use a solid, level cabinet.
How much water and how much land does a paludarium need?
The ratio depends entirely on the animals. Decide on them first, then draw the shoreline. The table below shows typical starting ratios.
| Main focus | Water : land | Water depth | Typical tank |
|---|---|---|---|
| Land-focused (small crabs, frogs) | 20 : 80 to 30 : 70 | 3–8 cm | 60 × 45 × 60 cm |
| Balanced (fire-bellied toads, newts) | 40 : 60 to 50 : 50 | 8–15 cm | 90 × 45 × 50 cm |
| Water-focused (fish plus emersed plants) | 60 : 40 to 70 : 30 | 15–25 cm | 100 × 50 × 60 cm |
| Show paludarium with waterfall | 40 : 60 | 10–20 cm | 120 × 60 × 60 cm or larger |
Two practical rules: the water section should be at least 10 cm wide at the narrowest point so you can reach in for cleaning, and every water edge needs at least one gentle exit ramp. Even good swimmers can tire, and many land animals drown in steep-sided water.
How do you build the land section so it does not rot?
The land section is where most paludarium builds fail. Soil sitting directly in water quickly becomes waterlogged, airless and sour. The solution is a raised construction that keeps the substrate above the water line while still letting excess water drain away.
- Divider: glue a glass strip or a stack of lightweight stones with aquarium silicone to separate water and land. If you want water to flow through the land section, leave small gaps covered with fine mesh.
- Drainage layer: expanded clay or lava granules, or a false bottom made of egg-crate grid on short pipe legs. This layer sits partly in the water and acts as a reservoir.
- Separation fleece: a layer of fine mesh or fleece stops substrate from washing into the drainage.
- Substrate: 5–10 cm of a loose tropical mix (coco fibre, humus, sand, a little charcoal). It should feel like a squeezed sponge, never like mud.
- Top layer: leaf litter and moss to hold moisture and give animals cover.
If you plan a bioactive land section with springtails and isopods, read our bioactive terrarium guide before you mix the substrate. A paludarium land section is wetter than most bioactive setups, so choose a clean-up crew that tolerates high humidity.
Which filter, heating and lighting does a paludarium need?
Treat the water section like a small aquarium. The water volume is low, so waste builds up quickly.
- Filter: a compact canister filter outside the tank or a small internal filter hidden in a corner. Rule of thumb: the filter should turn over the water volume three to five times per hour. Cover every intake with a sponge so small animals, juveniles and shrimp cannot be sucked in. A small pump can also feed a stream or a terrarium waterfall.
- Water heating: a small adjustable heater, ideally with a protective cage, set to the needs of your animals. Many tropical setups run at 22–26 °C water temperature.
- Air heating: often the lighting is enough. If not, add a low-wattage heat source above the land section, never one that the animals can touch.
- Lighting: strong LED lighting for plants, on a timer for 10–12 hours. If you keep reptiles, add UVB according to the species.
- Humidity: the open water surface raises humidity by itself. A misting system or a fogger is optional, not mandatory.
Plan where every cable, hose and sensor will run before you fit the background. Retrofitting tubing behind a finished wall is the most frustrating job in paludarium building.
Paludarium build order: step by step
| Step | What you do | Waiting time |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Plan | Choose animals, sketch water/land layout, plan cable and hose routes | As long as it takes |
| 2. Leak test | Fill the empty tank to the planned water line on a towel | 24 hours |
| 3. Background | Silicone the background and any side panels to the dry glass | At least 48 hours curing, lid open |
| 4. Divider and drainage | Install divider, false bottom or clay layer, fleece | 24 hours if siliconed |
| 5. Technology | Fit filter, heater, pump, lighting, timer, thermometer | Same day |
| 6. Hardscape | Roots, rocks and hides on the land section and in the water | Same day |
| 7. Substrate and plants | Fill substrate, plant, add leaf litter and moss | Same day |
| 8. Cycling | Run filter and lighting without animals, test water | 3–6 weeks |
| 9. Stocking | Add clean-up crew first, then fish, then land animals | Spread over days to weeks |
The cycling phase is not optional. Beneficial bacteria need several weeks to settle in the filter. Testing ammonia and nitrite before adding any animal protects you from the most common early losses.

Which background works in a paludarium?
A paludarium background lives in the harshest conditions of any terrarium: splash water at the bottom, condensation at the top and warm humid air everywhere. It has to be completely water-resistant, it must not soften, and it should not become a breeding ground for mould. It also does a lot of visual work, because the water reflects whatever is behind it.
Two styles work particularly well. A rock or cave background creates the classic stream-bank or grotto look, and models like the Grotto Cave Background come with an integrated water basin, which gives you a natural-looking pool without building one yourself. For rainforest swamps, a root-and-soil background such as the Amazonian Roots In The Soil continues the land section up the back wall and gives frogs and crabs real climbing routes. You will find all styles in our terrarium backgrounds collection.
From the workshop: what we need to know for a paludarium order
Every background we make is handmade, and for humid setups we apply a different protective coating than for desert tanks. On paludarium models this coating can look slightly glossy, which actually suits wet rock. That is why we always ask what the background is for. Please tell us when you order:
- that the background is for a paludarium, and where the water line will be;
- whether you want a basin, a terrace or a basking shelf integrated, or a bottom rock formation that overhangs the water for a cave look;
- whether you need a service chamber behind the background to hide filter hoses, pump cables or misting lines;
- whether the tank has top bracing, so we can split a large model into parts that fit through the opening (give us the largest top opening A × B);
- which animals will live in the tank, especially if they have sharp claws.
Before shipping, we send you photos of your finished piece for approval. Production for standard sizes takes 10–12 business days, shipping about 10 business days, and shipping is included in the price.

How do you decorate the shoreline?
The transition between water and land is the most photographed part of any paludarium, and the one where real wood suffers the most. A root that sits half in water and half in damp air is constantly wet and dry at the same time, which is ideal for rot and fungus. Our artificial roots and driftwood need no boiling or baking, never rot or mould and keep their colour. A large piece like the Massive Spider Root can lead from the water's edge up to the land section and doubles as an exit ramp. Add flat rocks at the water's edge, artificial moss on the root tops and a few plants that tolerate wet feet.
What does a paludarium cost?
| Item | Small (60 × 45 × 45 cm, W × D × H) | Large (120 × 60 × 60 cm, W × D × H) |
|---|---|---|
| Front-opening glass tank, watertight | 200–350 € | 600–1,200 € |
| Background | 180.25 € (Grotto Cave, 57.5 × 42.5 cm) | 444.25 € (Grotto Cave, 117.5 × 57.5 cm) |
| Filter, heater, pump | 60–120 € | 150–300 € |
| LED lighting and timer | 60–150 € | 150–400 € |
| Drainage, substrate, plants | 60–120 € | 150–300 € |
| Roots, rocks, leaf litter | 100–250 € | 250–600 € |
Prices for tanks and technology are rough guide values and vary widely by brand and quality; background prices are our own, shipping included.
FAQ
Is a paludarium hard to maintain?
It is more work than a dry terrarium, because you maintain an aquarium and a terrarium at once. Expect a partial water change every week or two, filter cleaning every few weeks and regular pruning. A well-planned build with easy access cuts that time noticeably.
Should I buy a paludarium kit or build my own?
A kit is quick, but check that it is truly watertight to your planned water line and that the front opens above it. Building gives you full control over ratio, shoreline and hidden technology. In both cases the background and decor decide how natural it looks.
Can I convert an aquarium into a paludarium?
Yes, if you add a ventilated lid with good access. The main drawback is top-only access, which makes planting the land section awkward.
Which animals can live in a paludarium?
Fire-bellied toads, some newts, small freshwater crabs, mudskippers in brackish setups and many small fish and shrimp. Our guide to the best paludarium animals compares the suitable species, and vampire crabs get their own vampire crab paludarium guide. Always plan the tank around the species, not the other way round. Our shop by animal page helps you find matching decor.
Ready to build? Choose a water-resistant background from our terrarium backgrounds collection, tell us it is for a paludarium, and we will make it to fit your tank.